The Goan Diaspora: #1: Gillian Gracias
Informal interview series getting to know Goans from around the globe
Hello everyone,
Welcome back to another issue of Yesterday’s Curry newsletter - thank you so much for reading and for your continued support! For those of you who are new here, my name is Emma and I am a chef, cookery teacher, spice business owner and food writer based in London. I set up this newsletter to connect with my Goan heritage, and I hope you enjoy reading it!
When I started this newsletter, connecting with my roots and the Goan community was at the heart of what I wanted to achieve. I’ve met plenty of Goans from around the world using instagram, facebook groups and this newsletter and I think talking to the wider community is essential in really understanding Goan food and how it is eaten and viewed by members of the Goan diaspora. The Goan Diaspora interview series will be way of getting the foodie thoughts of everyone from professional chefs and cookbook authors to celebrated home cooks or those who simply love to cook or eat Goan food.
I have many exciting interviews planned for the next few weeks and months, and to kick off I spoke to Gillian Gracias, a student based in the UK of Goan descent. After chatting to Gillian on instagram, I saw that she had similar ambitions to myself when I started on my Goan food journey, and that is to connect with her heritage and to learn Goan cooking in ernest. I asked Gillian a series of questions about her relationship with food, and her answers certainly reflected a lot of my own thoughts.
1. Please can you tell me a little about yourself?
Gillian Gracias, 21, Politics Philosophy & Economics student at the University of Exeter. Before I came to university I did not know how to cook, being on my own encouraged me to try new recipes which then led to the birth of my food account @graciasandgarlic. Initially this consisted of posting meals I made at university, but now it also includes reviews of meals I eat at restaurants too.
2. Do you currently live in Goa? If so, whereabouts? Please could you tell me a little about the region you are from?
I am currently living and attending university in England.
3. Are there any dishes specific to the region in Goa you are from? If so, could you tell me a little more about this?
I'm not entirely sure if there are any region-specific dishes, but growing up my favourite foods served at home, gatherings and weddings were: Rissois, Chicken Xacuti and a sweet Serradura to top it all off!
4. If you do not live in Goa, could you tell me a little about your Goan heritage and what it means to you to be a member of the Goan diaspora? What region do your family come from, and do you visit often?
I am 100% Goan, both of my parents are from Goa. My mum is from Panjim and my dad is from Chinchinim. Although I don't live there, you will usually find me there around Christmas/New Year. Being a Goan is integral to my personal identity and I am very patriotic of our little state. From our comforting food to our rich culture and beautiful landscapes, Goa is like a slice of heaven! I am also the physical embodiment of 'susegad' and what could be more Goan than that!
5. What is your relationship to Goan food? Did you grow up eating traditional Goan cuisine?
To me, Goan food is home. I grew up eating it, and when I'm home from university my mum kindly obliges to fill the Goan food shaped hole in my stomach :) I (like many) would argue my mums Goan food is miles better than anyone else's.
6. Do you cook a lot of Goan food? If so, what is your favourite dish to make, and could you tell me a little about this dish and what it means to you and your heritage?
I've not been able to cook much traditional food at university, but it is definitely on my to-do list. I have however, tried my hand at traditional Pulao alongside the Goan Chorizo. Does reheating my mum's sorpotel count? ;)
7. If different from above, what is your favourite Goan dish to eat, and why?
I couldn't possibly pick a single favourite goan dish, it changes depending on my mood. If I had to pick it would be a three-way tie between chicken xacuti, choriz-pao, and sungta chi kodi.
8. How would you describe Goan food to someone who has never tried it?
Spicy & homely dishes
9. What is your viewpoint on the representation of Goan cuisine in the rest of India or around the world?
Not even close to what it should be!! I think the general perception of Indian food is butter chicken and garlic naan, which dont get me wrong is great, but it doesn't even begin to scratch the surface of the multitude of beautiful dishes from different cultures India has to offer. You may find some with a slightly better understanding of Indian food, but from my personal experience, this knowledge of Indian food is still largely limited to dishes from the north of India.
Thank you to Gillian for taking the time to be part of my diaspora series. These will be coming once a month, with interviews from everyone’s favourite Mervyn Maciel up next, followed by fabulous podcast host and author Clyde D’Souza. I’m on the lookout for more interviewees, so please email me at emmadinizryan@gmail.com if interested!
In the meantime, I will be updating here soon regarding exciting new business launches and an online cookery school coming in January!
See you all next time,
Emma x
Many of the ingredients used in the subcontinent cooking were brought by the Portuguese. For example mirsang and botateh. Also the famous Vin da Alho and not Vindaloo.
ahh this is so exciting!!! thank you so much emma :)