The Goan Diaspora series #3: Melissa Sequiera + 2 bonus recipes
Informal interview series getting to know Goans from around the globe
Hello everyone!
Welcome back to today’s edition of Yesterday’s Curry, my newsletter where I document my ongoing research into Goan cuisine, behind the scenes of running a food business and anything else food related I feel is worth sharing, alot of which I also post here on instagram.
One of the best, if not THE best thing about starting this newsletter has been having direct contact with so much of the Goan diaspora. I love how many of you I now chat to on facebook or instagram and all the lovely emails I get when a piece particularly resonates. There’s nothing better than being able to connect with the community like this and so from day one I’ve always wanted to share stories from other Goans and not just use this platform to share my own cooking. So far, we’ve had interviews from Gillian, Mervyn and Clyde and today I’ll be hearing from Melissa Sequiera, our first Canadian Goan in this series which is very exciting!
Melissa and I began chatting via email and I love it when someone is open to sharing their background and thoughts about Goan cuisine as it really helps to understand the scope of the diaspora and the nuances of food habits from Goans around the globe.
So without further ado…
1. Please can you tell me a little about yourself and your background?
My name is Melissa. I was born in Kampala (the capital of Uganda) and at the age of 6, my parents and I left for Goa. My much older brothers were left behind and one of my brothers made it to Aldershot in the UK. My eldest brother was left behind as my father could not get him to England. He was in Kampala when Idi Amin's coup occurred.
These were devastating times for all East Africans. My parents and brothers did not discuss their trauma and as I was so young I was sheltered from it all. All I remember is saying goodbye to my brothers, getting on a train and then a ship that sailed to a strange country.
It took an entire day to get to my father's house in Moira. I don't know which city had the port. The journey was marvelous, first a bus, then a ferry over a river, then a bus to Mapusa, another bus and finally a taxi to my father's house from the bus stop at the top of the hill in Moira. My parents were exhausted, but not me, everything was new.
This was a completely different world that I didn't know existed. To top it all off, we ended up in a tiny village at the bottom of a valley in a very big house on a 3 tiered lot, not a city like Kampala.
No one in Goa spoke Swahili and very few spoke English, imagine the confusion for a 6 year old. However, 4 years later when we headed to my eldest brother's wedding in Toronto I was excited for a new adventure. I think my parents were terrified. We were all reunited at the wedding and my other brother eventually immigrated from the UK.
2. Could you tell me a little about your Goan heritage, what part of Goa your family are from and what it means to you to be Goan?
My mother’s side of the family is from Bodiem, Tivim and my father’s from Bamordem in Moira, both in North Goa. After moving away, I left with a love for Goa that is still with me today. I no longer speak Konkani but I do understand the occasional word here and there. I will proudly correct anyone who calls me Indian and will briefly explain the history of the Portuguese-Goans.
Goa had a profound influence on me. So much so that 25 years after moving to Toronto I chose to move to Kelowna, BC because I wanted to live in a place full of orchards, lakes, rivers and an abundance of nature, similar to Goa. I make sure to keep my culture alive.
3. Could you tell me a little about being Goan in relation to Canada specifically?
Canadian Goans are mostly from East Africa. But there are lots from Goa, Pakistan and the Middle East. Our population is in the thousands I think by now. They are mostly in Montreal, Toronto, Calgary and Vancouver but I expect that there are Goans living in all Canadian Provinces.
There isn't a Goan community where I live, the closest would be Vancouver or Calgary. When I lived in Toronto, I did participate in the Goan community in a limited capacity. From the ages of 15-19 I played field hockey with the Goa Reds Ladies team.
I also participated in the Goan Theatrical group when I was a teen for a couple of years. I participated in the folk dancing and singing which occurred during the break between each act. It was a wonderful experience. At that time I was still fluent in Konkani, so it gave me a chance to practice the language.
It is also worth pointing out that Goan-Canadians have played in field hockey at multiple levels including the Olympics!
As for being Goan in Canada, by now Goans are known here but mostly in Toronto, Vancouver and Calgary. I have been asked if I am from Goa by Canadians mostly because those asking have Goan friends or colleagues. I am always delighted to be asked!
4. What is it like cooking Goan food in Canada? Is there a strong Goan community there, and how easy is it to access the right ingredients to make Goan dishes?
Most ingredients can be found in Indian Food stores or large grocery stores. But no Bombay duck that I know of! As I use coconut once a week, I rely on organic dried/desiccated coconut which I can find easily in any grocery store.
There is a Goan restaurant in Toronto. There may be others, but I am not aware of them. The Goan associations in Vancouver and Toronto are very vibrant and active with multiple (Saint's) feasts and celebrations throughout the year. I know that in Toronto some of these events have food vendors selling Goan sausages, pickles and likely other Goan dishes and treats. There are a few who import Goan foods and others who make and sell Goan foods.
I have made Goan dishes for many non-Goan friends and they have all enjoyed them. I am careful to point out the differences between Goan and Indian dishes e.g. Chicken Xacuti vs Chicken Curry.
5. How would you describe Goan food to someone who has never tried it?
Most Canadians have no idea about Goa. I usually say it represents a fusion of South Indian and Portuguese cuisines. We don’t make curries except Fish or Prawn curries which are coconut based similar to a Thai curry with completly different herbs and spices. We cook veggies with spices and/or coconut. We have chicken, pork and beef stew like dishes with are hot and spicy or mild. I always remind people that vindaloo is actually a close copy of the Goan dish Vindalho. Our desserts are unique not like any other Indian dessert one might find in a restaurant. They usually have coconut or rice as an ingredient.
6. What is your viewpoint on the representation of Goan cuisine around the world?
What representation?! Finding a Goan restaurant in Canada is like finding a needle in a haystack.
I have traveled extensively around the world but have not come across any Goan restaurants. However, i don't deliberately search for them because I am mostly interested in local cuisine. It is interesting though that the world is full of "Indian" restaurants. In my opinion, Goans tend to assimilate into the local culture wherever they live and Goan food is mostly enjoyed at home.
I am immensely proud of my Goan heritage so when I find a goan dish (like vindaloo) or pullao (saffron rice as it is named on menus) in Indian restaurants, I feel ripped off because people assume it’s Indian like all other Indian dishes.
7. Do you cook a lot of Goan food? If so, what is your favourite dish to make, and could you tell me a little about this dish and what it means to you and your heritage?
I mostly make fish curries and veg in the Goan style but don’t adhere to traditional recipes either due to lack of ingredients or my specific dietary needs. I have prepared Goan meals for friends and will gladly search and send them recipes. One of my recipes was published in a local newspaper after I shared it with a fishmonger who was from the UK; he said it was the best fish curry he'd ever had. Unfortunately I don't have it and certainly don't recall the ingredients, it was just something I wrote down off the top of my head!
My husband is caucasian but he loves Goan food as well. His favourite is trotters and goat curry (but it's actually a stew)! I don't bake at all but my favourite sweet is penag. My dearest mamai and aunt would always make it for me when we went to visit.
My grandmother made my favourite veg dish which I called "Mamaichi's Bhaji". It was only after coming to Canada that my mother told me it was actually spinach! I have a garden and when i prepare spinach with red lentils I think of her fondly.
You can find below my 2 favourite recipes (you will notice the omission of chilies because I cannot eat hot food anymore)
Swiss Chard Foogath
1 large bunch swiss chard - stems cut finely, leaves roughly chopped.
1 Onion, sliced
3 tablespoon coconut oil
1/2 teaspoon cumin powder
1 tsp coriander powder
1/2 tsp turmeric
1/2 cup desiccated coconut soaked
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 tsp pepper
Saute the onions until softened, add the stems and all other ingredients except leaves and coconut.
Saute until the stems are softened.
Add the leaves and soaked coconut (remove excess water).
Stir until the leaves wilt.
Halibut Caldine
1/2 kg halibut (any white fish)
2 onion sliced finely
1 tomato chopped
2 tablespoons coconut oil
2 garlic cloves
1 tablespoon paprika
1 tablespoon turmeric
1 tablespoon vinegar
1 teaspoon each of salt & pepper
1/2 can aroy-d coconut milk
Saute the onions until translucent, then add tomatoes and saute until very soft.
Add the remainder of the ingredients except the fish.
Bring to a boil, reduce to medium heat for 10 mins.
Finally, add the fish and cook until it is ready ~ 10 mins
Thank you so much to Melissa for taking the time to answer my interview questions and also for generously sharing two of her Goan recipes with me. For my non Goan readers amongst you, I hope this has given you an idea of some Goan dishes you may not have heard of before. For the Canadian/Goans amongst you, here are some links below which you may find useful:
Resources kindly shared by Melissa:
https://www.facebook.com/goatoronto/
https://www.facebook.com/goacalgary
https://goavancouver.com/
I’m currently on the lookout for more interviewees, so please email me at emmadinizryan@gmail.com if you are interested in being featured!
Until next time,
Emma x